Archives for May 2012

Developing Lace

One of the many ways to make lace. Photo by Kotomicreations on Flickr

Lacework is thought to have been derived from fishermen’s nets.  A prehistoric piece of netting can be seen in the National Museum in Copenhagen.  Lacework was derived from a technique of knotting which had a function, and later it developed its ornamental purposes.  The word lace is derived from the Latin word lacques, meaning loop or snare. The term lace extends to any openwork fabric that is created by looping, twisting, or knotting threads either by hand or machine.

Before it was possible to machine produce lace,  it was all made by hand.  Women would create lace to decorate a variety of clothing including wedding dresses.  Lace has been used on handkerchiefs, collars, sleeves, undergarments, and around the house.

In the early days of lace; silk, flax, metal threads or even human hair were widely used.  Lace can be made of any thread which is thin enough, strong enough and doesn’t stretch.  Colors were usually white or cream and sometimes black.  But by dying the thread used to create lace, you can create colored pieces. Trimmings of silk or gold thread presented problems since they were hard to clean.  The white linen thread became popular in the 16th century.  Much of the linen thread comes from Great Britain and Northern Ireland, because the moist climate produces the best flax resulting in the best linen.  Bleaching gives linen a soft shade rather than a stark white.  Linen prices grew and were eventually replaced with cheap cotton threads.

There are many different techniques to create  lacework, each resulting in a unique object.  The different techniques are:

Bobbin Lace
Needle Made Lace
Tulle Lace
Cutwork
Tape Lace
Knotted Lace
Crocheted Lace
Knitted Lace
Machine-made
Guipure

Each technique requires a series of different knots and loops. There are:

Raised knots                Interlaced loops
Flat knots                     Symmetrical double knots
Cross knots                  Divergent knot
Weavers’ knots           Reef Knot
Chinese knots             Lattice net, or half stitch
Double knots               Linen stitch
Woven platis               Symmetrical double knots

If you wish to see lace making performed please follow the video link to Flickr. Video courtesy of Bill McNeal (whiteknuckled).

 

Colored Lace

 

Photo courtesy of The Idaho State Historical Society

 

This piece of lace was made in 1901 by Mrs. Janet (Binkerhoff) Leavitt. In 1847 she moved to Salt Lake City and then to Lewiston, Idaho.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lace Cuff

Lace cuffs were common on the end of sleeves.  Items such as these were created specifically for this purpose. In the past it was also common for these cuffs to have a pattern that was developed in a specific region such as an English or German pattern.

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

 

 

 

 

 

Handkerchief

This handkerchief, with a lace edge, was made by Mrs. Louis Dibble (Roxana Niles Will Dibble) in about 1863 for her wedding.  She married Lois Dibble on a boat as they sailed around Cape horn on June 8, 1863.

 

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

A Lace Scrap

This scrap of lace was made in 1901 by Mrs. Janet (Binkerhoff) Leavitt.  She moved to Salt Lake City in 1847 and later moved to Lewiston, Idaho.

 

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

 

Delicate Lace Handkerchief

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

This lace handkerchief with a very delicate lace edge and intricate designs was handmade, possibly by the donor Ethel G. Johnson. Possibly created in 1900.  It is similar to many that were used in weddings.

The border of this piece would have been made by a needle and thread taking hundreds of stitches to form this delicate design.  We can see in this piece that it has a very complex design and represents many organic and floral shapes.

Lace Strip

Image courtesy of The Idaho Historical Society

This is a hand crocheted lace edge created by Mabel Flors Lewis Jackson.  She came to Idaho in around 1908 and lived in Rupert and Jerome before moving to Nampa in 1920.

 

Lace Modernized

Lace has taken on many different functions as time has gone by.  In our contemporary art world, some artists have taken on the technique of lace making and turned it upside down.   A group of dutch designers have taken the lace technique and employed it into their chain fences.   Along the fence the designers have almost fooled the viewers eye by making the fence appear as though it is made of fabric.  Click here to view the lace fences.

Some artists have also shifted the lace world into a sculptural realm. Taking on non representational characteristics, the art has completely diverged from its original mediums intent.   An exhibition in Bruges, Belgium titled Kantlijnen or “The Face of Lace,” was comprised of many different artists and their lace talent.  Artists have taken the visual ideals of lace and placed them into a realm of ambiguity.  From shovels appearing to be made of lace, abstract clothing to lace shadows created by various objects. Click here to view “The Face of Lace” show.

Click here to watch a video of the making of “The Face of Lace.”

 

The provided images of lace show pieces that were created by women in Idaho.  While history of lace in Idaho is scarce, the samples show that it was indeed a part of Idaho’s culture.  By continuing to study women and their crafts, a stronger history can begin to emerge.

Bibliography

Lace photos courtesy of the Idaho Historical Society.

 

 

Edkins, Jo. “Strange Materials.” Jo Edkins’ Lace School. http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/strange.htm.

Flickr. “Bruges – Bobbin lace-making.” http://www.flickr.com/photos/kotomi-jewelry/3554691053/.

Gannon, Caitlin. Fiber Organics . http://www.fiberorganics.com/Home.html.

Made How. “Lace Curtain.” http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Lace-Curtain.html.

Moore, N H. The Lace Book. New York: Tudor Pub. Co, 1937. Print

Pfannschmidt, Ernst E. Twentieth-century Lace. New York: Scribner, 1975. Print

Wikipedia. “Doily.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doily.

Wikipedia. “Lace.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lace.

Fashion on the Frontier

Life on the American frontier meant countless hardships. Many people living in what are now states like Idaho, Montana and Utah homesteaded and relied mostly on themselves for everyday things like clothing, food and housing. Being self-sufficient, out of necessity, meant that many frontier brides had to sew their own dresses or wear a dress handed down from relatives or neighbors. Also, fabric was not easy to come by since many people lived in small communities far away from merchants or postal stations where they could purchase fabrics. Thus, most wedding dresses on the frontier were simply “best” dresses. Frontierswomen often wore their “best” dresses for multiple occasions such as weddings, funerals, church gatherings, etc. A frontier bride did not only wear this dress for her wedding, but throughout her life and probably loaned out to other women when needed, or passed down to relatives and children8. When thinking about the American frontier it is easy to assume that it was not the cleanest environment. Old photographs often show dirt streets and dusty homesteads, even the people in the photographs sometimes appear with dirty shoes and even dirty clothes.

We have learned that people living in the frontier did not have easy access to materials like fabric, leaving their wardrobes minimal and consisting of only a few necessary articles of clothing. We have also learned that frontierswomen often wed in their “best” dress, a dress to be worn on multiple occasions throughout her life.

This dress, made and worn by Mrs. Louis Dibble, exemplifies versatility in a woman's "best" dress. This photo shows the dress with it's accompanying jacket. A later photo shows the dress in it's short-sleeve form. Mrs. Dibble wore this dress on a boat sailing around Cape Horn for her wedding, June 8, 1863. Image courtesy of Idaho State Historical Society. Catalog # 1971.119.3/1-3

Lastly, we have learned that living on the frontier meant living in a rather dirty environment. Knowing all of that it is not surprising to learn that many frontier brides did not wear white dresses on their wedding day. Color became very important in the evolution of dressmaking during the Victorian Era9. In more industrialized locations, such as London and New York, white did not seem as impractical as it did in the West. However, the use of color served a practical purpose for women in the West, as choices in clothing and the maintenance needed for white fabrics were not as accessible. In fact, many surviving dresses are different shades of brown, grey and even black. Some are more aesthetically pleasing colors, like periwinkle or velvety red, but very few are white.

Vibrant fabrics such as the dense periwinkle cotton used in this dress helped hide dirt -- better than white -- and provided customization for women. Image courtesy of Idaho State Historical Society. Catalog # 1971.119.3/1-3

White, as is still believed today, is a difficult color to keep clean. Think about life in the 19th century American frontier: clean water to wash clothing with was not common, brides wed in a dress that had to be worn more than once and the surrounding environment did not accommodate anything white. Thus, wedding dresses of the American frontier were rarely white.

For the sake of practicality, frontierswomen’s wedding dresses differed in many ways to the Victorian fashions of most of the 19th century. While the dress cuts may have been accommodating to the modesty of Victorianism, the colors and styles were more practical for life on the American frontier. Now that we understand the historical context of Victorian fashion and the practicality of the American West, we will now explore the technology used to craft these dresses.

ENDNOTES

8. Sandra H. Luebking. “Your Search for U.S. Marriage Records.” Ancestry: A Family History Source from Amcestry.com 20; 3 (2002): 26. Accessed May 1, 2012. http://books.google.com/books?id=gn_YSif8RLEC&pg=PA26&dq=history+of+american+frontier+wedding+dresses&hl=en&sa=X&ei=M76iT-glpeSIAvyCqdgH&ved=0CEMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=history%20of%20american%20frontier%20wedding%20dresses&f=false

 

9. Hackettstown Historical Society. “Fashion in the Victorian Era.” Accessed May 4, 2012. http://www.hackettstownhistory.com/narticle_fashion.shtml.